2013 Caribbean - Dominican Republic and Haiti
Malua is at 18:24.06N 68:54.23W at Casa del Campo Marina on
24/03/2013.
I left Puerto Rico in the dark at midnight. The moon was up but there
was no wind. One sets off watching the chart plotter and the depth
below the keel. The reef here is more than five miles off the coast so
the town lights are just dropping behind the horizon and you or still
in less than 15 m of water. When you are finally outside the reef the
water drops off to more than 1 km deep.
I motored all night with less than 5 knots of wind. The going was slow
because there seemed to be a current against me. By 8:00 am I was abeam
of Mona Island and the slight current was with me. At this rate I would
reach the DR well after dark at about 10:00 pm. Not a good time to make
landfall.
I had selected a beach to the east of the SE cape which has a large
island Saona Island. One can tuck in on the entrance to the channel but
there is an uncharted sand bar so I chose to go further NW to a beach
of Las Palmillas.
It was now getting dark quickly as I motored along the shore looking
for the beach. I could still see a few boats at anchor but the seemed
very close to the beach. Just then a large game fishing boat appeared
and followed me in. I slowed to a snails pace and he passed so I was
able to follow him. At one point he must have gone into shallow water
because he backed out and took a different route. Finally dropping his
anchor. I stood of a good distance and dropped the hook in 1 m under
the keel but still a fair way from the shore. A save anchorage and a
good sleep after 18 hours and just over 100 nm covered.
Up the next day to Casa del Campo to check in. I called the marina who
said come in and tie up at W dock right at the entrance. There were
more than enough people to help but the dock was at station level and
the surge rolled Malua, luckily the wind blew us off.
Please wait for the authorities who arrived within an hour - all seven
of them. Each came on board and went down below. Very polite with just
the Customs lady able to speak any English. It seems as if every one
filled a different form but with the same information. I was finally
presented with a form and a bill.. 93 us dollars plus tips which I gave
them 30 to share.
Off to the marina office to find a berth. Sorry we are full it is the
start of the fishing season. Frankly a Greek port captain could have
got at least 50 more boats. They suggested I anchor just inside the
entrance which I did.
Casa del Campo is the larges marina development complex I have ever
seen. It has three competition golf courses with its own international
airport which I understand has Tiger Woods jet at the moment. There is
a tournament in a few days. The development has been carved out of the
cane field and has been in existence for more than 30 years. The houses
along the sea and links are the largest I have ever seen including a
red ferrarie. Most people use golf carts - super size to get around.
I set off to walk to the exit and into the local town of LA Romans. A
bus from the develoment stopped to give me a lift a fellow befriended
me
and asked what I wanted to do. We got off and approached the exit
security but they would not let me out without a pass. OK get back on
the bus and go to the main entrance and wait. I did and sure enough
there the fellow was on his scooter. Hop on the back and off we go. We
stop at a taxi rank and he negotiates a rate for me to be shown around
Romans and return me to the marina for 20 us dollars.
Being Sunday the shops are closed but the people were out in front of
their houses and in the parks. The younger generation were at the
discos and bars. Just like any other disco,with the bouncer outside
with a bevy of good looking girls hanging around. My driver took me to
see the towns highlights as well as the back streets of the town. It is
very rundown, poor and need a good coat of paint. Don't walk these
streets if you are white and not at night. I was very lucky to see this
side of the town. We then returned to Cascade Campo the complete
reverse of the local town. I checked the prices of the real estate. The
place on the sea front is only 20 mil US and a modest 6 bedroom place
with pool only 1.45 mil US.
I dropped in to the restaurant area to see if I would have dinner.
Sorry we are full you should make a reservation for tomorrow. OK Malua
will offer pork chops on an orange sauce. Just right.
I checked out the next day and got my Despacho without trouble or a tip.
A magical moment on Malua.
Malua is at 18:26.875N 69:37.343W at mooring in Boca Chico on
26/03/2013
Boca Chico what at contrast from the plush resort of Casa de Compo.
This place is a dump, poor with little to see as part of the Port of
Andres. It is easy to follow the markers into the port then move NE
towards the Marina Zarpar. You have to pass the Club Nautico and
between the island. Keep VERY close to the end of their jetty because
the shore of shallow water extends from the end of the island almost to
their dock but once past the shallow pick up a mooring ball off the
dock of Marina Zarpar. The fellow in charge of the dock Roul speaks
good English and is very helpful. He took me on his moped into the
village to an ATM in a chemist to try and draw cash from my Ozzie Viza
and Mastercard but to no avail. His assistant Sonnie took my dispatchio
and when I wanted to leave he got a new one for me for only $20. Good
value and no direct dealings with the authorities who I understand are
not very cooperative here.
One can walk to the actual town of Boca Chico along the beach, only
during the day to see the locals and some second class US citizens
having a good time in the shallow water behind the reef. The food at
the restaurants is not good so don’t waste your time. The banks also
did
not give me any cash so I used up some of my US dollars in this dump. I
seemed to have walked a long way and only saw the back streets of a
very poor suburb with every house guarded by high fence and burglar
bars. People sit behind these looking out into the street on which
mopeds and old cars rush up and down. There are many small bars with
people drinking and playing chess or dominoes with a number of girls to
serve.
I only spent two nights here because to get to Santo Domingo would have
been very difficult especially not wanting to change my dollars into
the local currency so I asked Sonny to get a dispatchio to leave at
8:00. After a number of phone calls and off he goes on the scooter he
returns well after 9:00 but with the correct paperwork. I had indicated
I would be going to Salimas a big bay more than 65 nm away so it would
be tight if I was to get their in the light.
A magical moment on Malua
Malua is at 18:12.88N 70:32.75W in Salinas Bay on 27/03/2013
I left Boca Chico knowing that I had 65 nm to travel and I may have to
enter in the dark but from all reports and the charts It looked easy. I
sailed most of the way with the wind behind but as the sun set the wind
dropped. I had plotted a course all the way into the bay with a heads
up to look out for the unmarked fish farm.
Captain Bob at the Marine Rescue has always insisted that when you plot
your course you stand off any headland no matter if it is the one you
know very well, by about a mile, just in case something goes wrong. I
listened and have to this day stayed more than a mile off any headland
no matter the conditions. Well! I was motoring past this headland
before turning to starboard to get into its lee and enter the channel
when bang bang..... the fan belt on the engine broke. Stop the engine.
No wind to sail and a slight current but Malua was adrift BUT I was
more than a mile off the headland. It only took me 10 minutes to get
the new belt fit, it tested and to restart the engine and Malua was
heading away from the rocky shore of the headland. No danger, no stress
but a lesson well learnt. Stand off the shore no matter how well you
know it or how deep it is.
The channel was not well lit but there are a few marker buoys which the
radar picked up plus the chart was spot on. I moved cautiously in
towards what appeared to be a few anchored yachts and dropped the
anchor about a half mile off shore.
The next day I moved closer on shore and re-anchored before the Coast
Guard appeared in a small fishing boat. He came aboard and insisted in
looking around but did not even opening a cupboard. He took the
dispatchio then asked for some grog. I took him to the fridge and
offered him some beer in a plastic bottle which he refused. I indicated
I wanted to leave the next day at 8:00 and I required a new dispatchio.
I then took a long walk along the bay shore towards what I though was a
town. After more than two hours no it was a very large naval base with
dry dock and cadets on the parade ground. Not a great exertion.
There is essentially no village at Salinas only a run down hotel
Salinas which was having a party that night. The waterfront is clean
and so are the houses but it is poor. A few houses had shops with not
much to offer. The fisherman’s coop seemed to be the place to be.
The next day I expected to see the Coast Guard appear on the dot of
8:00 by 9:00 still no sign so I got in the dinghy and went to the
fisherman's coop with my intentions on a piece of paper. Having names
written down helps with my poor pronunciation. I was informed I would
have to go to the Coast Guard base at the end of the peninsular and get
the dispatchio. Get a lift on the back of a motorbike with a young
fellow. Down the road we went, through the less than secure gates right
into the guard house of the Coast Guard. They seemed to know what I
wanted but had to wait for someone. The original fellow appeared, did
not say a word to me but one of the fellows started the torturous
process of filling out the form. He could hardly write and for him to
copy from my form to the new one was a challenge but as always I have
the patience of Job in these circumstances. Finally it was complete
although I did say I was stopping at Barahona but had no intentions. I
just wanted to leave. Which I did by 10:30.
I had plotted a course to round Capo Rojo some time during the night.
The total distance to my next destination was 220 nm a two nighter at
the current wind and speed.
That afternoon the wind came up and blew Malua along my intended route
which was a run. More importantly the swell came up because that part
of the coast is a lee shore for the swell to come along the south of
Puerto Rico and the DR. And did the swell build. It was the biggest
swell I have seen since the Souther Ocean! At sun set the wind was well
over the 25 knot range, I had taken in two reefs and no headsail and
was surfing down the long swell reaching speeds well over 8 knots. The
top speed reached was 10.4 knots as I surfed down a wave in the near
darkness. It was exciting and a bit scary but Malua and I handled it
well. I was hand steering for more than five hours because I could not
depend on the auto-pilot handeling the conditions. My shoulders were
sore when I finally switched on the auto-pilot again. I can tell you I
gave Capo Rojo more than 5 miles distance as I rounded it just after 2
am.
The wind started to drop as did the swell so I was able to open up the
foresail and settle into a pleasant sail down wind. I also set the
Watch Commander for a few 27 minute sleeps. I took a few before the sun
rose and we moved down the coast by which time the wind had dropped
off.
Now the challenge was to enter the Baie des Cayes on my way to Ille a
Vache. I knew I would not make it by sun set so I set myself an
anchorage some way along the island NW coast hopefully out of the
swell. I had been warned about the many fishing nets in that area so as
I reached the shallower water I slowed Malua down to about 2 knots put
on all the forward lights and hoped I would be able to see the plastic
bottles of the buoys before I hit one. With a bit of luck and good
vigilance I dropped the anchor on the NW corner of the island well into
the large bay but not far enough in to get out of the swell.
Fortunately the wind was against the swell so Malua sat quite calmly as
I had a great meal and a good sleep.
A magical moment on Malua
Ille a Vache Haiti
Malua is at 18:06.40N 73:41.68W at Port Margan on the island of
Ille a Vache Haiti See the Photos here
All the crusers that have come this way have enthused about this
delightful island and its people. It is off the coast of souther Haiti
and is not influenced by the mainland. In fact the authorities dont
seem to have arrived. When you drop anchor - keep to the port side as
you enter the bay there are a swarm of young fellows in or on all forms
of anything that can float. From good dugout canoes, surfboards,
fiberglass row boats to inflatables. They all have a story. Some of the
more market orientated have a resume and references. I had been told by
Outside - Ian and Wendy to look out for two fellows. I identified one
Pe Pe who agreed to take me to the market on Monday morning. That is a
story in itself.
Kramer is a fellow who is receiving money from Slow Dancing a Canadian
couple to build a bar and I was instructed to have a look and take some
picture to report progress. There has been and he has cast a central
pillar for the roof and purchased some plywood for the cupboards and
bar area. Things are slow but he has done what he can with the money so
far.
These people are very poor and want to do any sort of work on a yacht
to get some funds to advance themselves. Some are helpful and willing
but the majority just come to beg. i walked into the hills behind the
local French hotel to find four or five of the youngsters in amongst
the hotels garbage picking it over for something to eat. I now know why
more than one asked if they could take my garbage. Not a good sight.
I had arranged for Pe Pe to take me to the market at the larger town
some way away along the sea shore. I had in fact not asked how long it
would take to walk but we set off at 8:00. He walked fast and I had to
struggle to keep up. Up hill and down dale, along the coast in the soft
sand and then through the mangroves. We stopped for a drink of water
from a hand operated pump then on towards the market. After two hours I
knew we were getting close because more people were walking the same
path. On the outskirts there were a few people with live animals ready
to be sold and taken home then just out of the market the horse and
donkey parking lot. More than a hundred animals just standing in the
sun waiting for their owners to return.
The market is a typical African/Caribbean poor market. Open stalls or
some covered stalls with each vendor displaying a small range of goods.
I first had to stop at the money changer to turn my US dollars into the
local Gourd 1=40 I could then purchase the onions I was seeking plus
tomatoes and ripe mangoes. I got a good selection for my 10 dollars. We
returned to the money changer for a beer for the young fellow and a
coke - yes a US Coke for me.
Be Be had arranged that we would return by sail taxi to Port Morgan in
one of the local sail boats. All wooden made with local timber. The
frames selected from a tree with the right bend to fit the inside. They
are mostly water proof but don’t have much free board especially when
you put 16 people in then plus all their market purchase which ranged
from fuel, net fibre to fix the fishing nets, a piece of cloth, soap
and an assortment of smaller food items including spices.
We set off and only hoisted the foresail because the wind was quite
strong and we where going down wind. We kept quite close to the coast
and far less than one mile off the two major headlands but there again
being close in this case meant that most people if they could swim
would make it to the shore in the event of a mishap. After almost an
hour we turned into Port Morgan and Malua was pointed out to the
passengers by Pe Pe as my yacht in which I had sailed from Australia. I
don’t think many knew where Australia is. It was a great experience.
On the shore of the bay there were two boats being built in the
traditional fashion used for centuries. The shipright used an axe, and
adz and a hand saw plus his hammer and a few nails. The dug out conoe
which was having it final coat of paint was almost ready for launching.
I watched as the fellow took a tree branch shaped it into a point then
cut off the point and then cut into the branch to form a brush for the
paint. It was an amazing transformation from stick to paint brush which
worked as well as any badger haired brush and readily available at no
cost.
Ille a Vache has been a great experience to step back in time to a
small village using sailing boats as transport, making their own boats,
No electricity and a great desire to improve themselves.
A magical moment on Malua.
Tomorrow off to
Cuba.
Follow Malua.
