Martinique Dominica

2013 Caribbean- Martinique and Dominica

Malua is at 14:26.453N 60:53.107W at Saint Anne Martinique on 11/1/2013

We moved to the western side of Rodney Bay - St Lucia to get out of the swell. That morning I had defrosted the freezer because I had ordered a quantity of USA beef from a wholesaler who was prepared to cut, vacuum pack and then freeze the order plus deliver it to the marina. We had just finished the meat from the Canaries and some frozen chicken acquired along the route so it was time to restock just in case we could not get good meat in French Martinique.
At day break with a forecast of winds over 20 knots we pulled up the anchor – with the new s/s part manufactured on Malua. It came up without difficulty. Up went the sail in the lee of the bay and we set the course for Martinique hoping that the wind would give us a straight passage to the east of the island. The sea was confused as we rounded the southern tip of Rodney Bay and we bashed into some short chop with Malua only doing 4 knots. It was going to be a long day at this speed. When we were 5 miles out the sea settled down and the wind dropped to below 18 knots and the speed increased.
At about 6 miles out from the island it disappeared in a complete white out of rain which started to come towards us. The wind increased to over 25 knots and the angle dropped off almost 40 degrees so we where not going to make our proposed destination. The sea dropped and I turned on the engine and pointed the bow towards Saint Anne. The rain continued but the wind dropped off as we approached the land and the angle improved. The last mile the wind had almost completely gone away.
Over the airwaves came a familiar voice of Greg and Marie on Second Sally. A vessel we had met in Portugal in September. They gave us some advice on where to anchor and we dropped it down wind of their vessel. They came over with a map and the local directory plus lots of helpful information. What a great cruising community to take the trouble to help a new arrival. Many thanks.
Jack Tar arrived a few hours later having experienced the same weather patterns as us.

Malua is at 14:28.045N 60:52.524W in Marin on Martinique on 15/1/2013

Saint Anne is a lovely bay with just a small village with a Church and a few shops so if one wants to do a good shop in a French supermarket you have to go to the sailing capital of Martinique which is at Ville Du Marin.
We chose to take Malua round to what is known as Cul-de-sac du Marin. It is a buoyed channel right up into the head of the bay. Remember we are no in IALA region B where Red is on the Right Returning – Red buoys are on the Starboard when entering harbour. It takes a while to get use to it and even longer to point out a mark as a starboard mark that is red. Very confusing!
We asked Jack Tar and The Southern Cross to join us on Malua and to bring their dinghies along so that they could return to St Anne of their own accord. It was a very pleasant journey with four extra crew on board which as was expected led to many instances of... did you go her or here or .... do you know so and so from this vessel. A great gathering.
We dropped anchor only a little way into the bay and everyone set off in their dinghy to the Customs office to check-in. A painless task because one sits at a computer and fill in a form generally from a drop down list. The only problem is that the French do not use the USA keyboard so the letters are not in the expected position.
After completing the check-in procedure we visited the chandlery and then helped Laurie on Moana Roa with is ssb so he can join the MOzzie net on 8161 at 0800 local time.
Then the big shop at Dia, Leader Price and Carrefour. They each have their brands and selections but I must say the wine selection was very poor – a lot must have been sold over Christmas. The meat selection was hopeless so we chose not to purchase any. Then back to Malua to sample the wine selection.
A magical moment on Malua

Malua is at 14:26.27N 60:53.03W at Saint Anne on Martinique on 27/01/2013 with a short trip to St Lucia

We changed the flight for Denny to leave from St Lucia rather than Barbados which would have meant that we would have sailed against the wind and then get the bus to the airport. Instead we dropped anchor in Rodney bay just outside the marina and had a few easy days in that lovely bay.
The airport in St Lucia is in the south of the island almost 60 kn away. The Taxis in the madina have the business sew-up. They quote you US dollars which range from 80 to 110. There is no negotiating with them - take it or leave it and in most cases people are willing to pay the high prices.
We on the other hand took the local bus just outside the marine into Castries where I selected a good looking taxi and stood by it. The driver approached and we negotiated what I think is a very good price in EC 170 which is about US$62. Charlie the drive took us all the way south to Vieux Fort and the airport of Hewanorra. Denny checked in to the American Airlines and before I knew it was inside the departure lounge waiting for the flight to Miami, LA and finally Sydney.
I walked to the main road right outside the airport and the first bus arrived within seconds and I was off back to Castries for the full price of 8 EC about US$3. A very pleasant ride right back into the main town. Then a bus to the marina.
I took the dinghy back to Malua and went aboard. Only then did the enormity of what I have in front of me really hit. It is going to be a long lonely sail north.
The next day was Australia day and the marina held a few functions to help- celebrate Australia day but it appeared only 3 Ozzies turned up. Quite a turn around from the previous year when it was full of Ozzie sailors. Oh well those that where there drank the allotted quote of beer.
I checked out and left the next day soon after the sun came up. As predicted the wind blew strongly at the end of the island and the seas were rather choppy but after about an hour the sea settled and the wind decreased. A rain squall greeted me as I approached Saint Anne on Martinique but it soon passed and I dropped anchor right off the dinghy dock.
A magical moment on Malua

Malua is at 14:30.43N 61:05.32W at Grande Anse D'Arlet Martinique on 30/01/2013

It was time to move north. I had been in to the major town of Marin and visited the Carrefour, Leader Price and Dia to stock up on French wine and cheese. Of the former I think I have sufficient for the next four or five months unless the drains gets blocked. The latter will be eaten slowly on French bead every day.
I visited the local pharmacy to get my prescription lifesaving drugs. I ordered three months supply and had to come back the next day to collect them but like all thinks French they had made a mistake and one script was right while the other was short - the ones I had excess of. One day I will come to terms with the French way of doing things.
The sail westwards was easy with the wind behind. I soon poled out the genoa and was making good time at more than six knots. Coming round the headland had the usual variable wind but I was ready for it having come this way before. The engine went on and I steamed into the bay with the wind right on the nose.
As I came close to the middle of the bay there was a Hanse 48ft yacht messing around with their dinghy but as I came along side they steamed forward not giving me a glance or a second thought. Well I had the momentum on them and to their surprise I turned in front of their bow as I maintained my course. Not a close encounter but just another example of not looking in their rear view mirror as they put the accelerator to the floor and pulled out on to the "road".
I picked up the mooring ball by coming along side it and threading a line through the ring as I lay on the deck. It was just within reach. I then walked the line forward and secured it at the bow. No problems.
The big Hanse had someone in their dinghy to put the line through the mooring ball ring. They took it to one side and secured it then went below.
The wind then rose ahead of a rain squall and Malua and the Hanse swung on their moorings. It became clear to me that the Hanse had snagged it's mooring line around its bow thruster and the mooring buoy was against the opposite side of the bow and causing damage.
I swam over with my swimming goggles so see what was going on. Their line was tight around the protruding bow thruster. I hailed the yacht and the skipper came out. "do you know your mooring line is round your bow thruster?"
No. "Would you like some help?" yes.
OK. Loosen the port line, get a second line and I will attempt to untangle this mess. I dived down and pulled and untangles the mess. After a minute or two I had untangled the line. "OK you can secure the line the mooring buoy is now free".
"Thanks"
I swam off with not more than a single thanks from the Hanse person.
Later that afternoon the fellow drove past Malua as we went into the dinghy dock. I expected a wave or at lease another thank you but nothing. The British are funny about gratitude quite unlike the French man I helped untangle his anchor in Margot Bay. He sent over a 1 large bottle of rum for my effort.
A magical moment on Malua

Malua is at 14:44.53N 61:16.68W at Saint Pierre on Martinique on 31/01/2013

I have a very relaxing day at Grand Anse D'Arlet hanging off a mooring buoy and getting good access to the Internet but it is time to move north especially if I am to achieve the goal of lobsters in Maine.
I stopped over at the cat Harlequinn to drop off a book about the French Canals and to seek some advice about sailing in the North West of the USA and Canada. James and Roni may also be on the French canals some day in the future.
I let go the mooring put up the main with one reef and unfurled the genoa and headed north across the large bay of Fort-de-France. There must have been a good current running with me because be fore I knew it I was doing 9.2 knots over the ground. Not bad for 20 knots of wind, one reef and a flat sea. The 12 miles journey to Saint Pierre was over almost before it began.
Saint Pierre is on the side of the still active volcano of Mont Pelee. The water is deep right up to the shore so one has to almost drop the hook on the dry sand of the beach then pull back out to sea. I found a spot at 6 m about 40 m from the shore and pulled back into 20 m of water under the keel.
The whole anchoring experience reminds me of the time in Vanuatu where I anchored in similar circumstances and went to bed. In the morning the wind was blowing off shore at more than 25 knots. It howled through the rigging until as I lay in bed the wind stopped and it became quiet. I stayed in bed some time before I suspected that something was wrong and I got up, looked out of the companion way hoping to see the shore a few meters off the bow and all I could see was the island fading into the distance as Malua drifted with the wind hence no wind noise and the anchor 45 meters hanging straight down into 2000 m of ocean.
Saint Pierre was overrun by the lava from the volcano on the 8th May 1902. The total population of 30,000 was either smothered by ash or buried beneath a wave of lava running down the mountain side which engulfed the whole town. Twelve ships where sunk in the harbour. Two people survives, one a cobbler, the other a man imprisoned for murder left in his cell until later found and released - with or without a pardon is not known.
Behind the current town and rising up to the top of the volcano is a green strip of land now cultivated and producing a good agricultural output.
Tomorrow Malua moved north to Dominica.
A magical moment on Malua

Malua is at 15:34.95N 61:27.80W in Prince Albert Bay Portsmouth Dominica on 31/01/2013

I left Saint Pierre on Martinique at dawn with barely a glow in the east. I was not alone for there was a mega yacht that set off a few moment after I pulled up the anchor. I set a course for a half mile off the point and went below to make some breakfast. There was no-one at the helm but I looked out the companion way to see the mega yacht Sundowner steaming off my port quarter. I though it was now appropriate to go topsides just to let them know that there was in fact someone in command. As I appeared and waved a number of hands rose to wave back .They must have been watching Malua to see if there was someone aboard. They quickly disappeared into the distance as I hit the first big swell and gust of the open sea of the passage between the two islands. The wind rose to just over 22 knots so it was time to put at least one reef in. I furled the genoa and adjusted the helm to about 60 degrees apparent wind. A close reach but wet as the seas which had built to quite a swell hit the side of Malua and were carried aft with the wind. The boat was going like a train and the waves where coming over the bow and down the side decks.
I had a dilemma to reef down and slow down or keep going. I chose to put a second reef in and slow down but I did not. All we did was reduce the heel and the number of waves coming over the bow. The speed was maintained.
It is about 27 nm to the tip of Dominica which should have take four hours but the time flew and before I knew it I was passing Scotts Head with a 50 ft American registered Oyster hot on my heels. Out came the first reef, then the second. Then the genoa was unfurled and the original Americas cup off New Port was on again.
I trimmed the sails, changed the course and chose a course where I would get the best wind in the tricky variable winds in the lee of the island. I was pulling ahead of the Oyster and and a 48 ft French boat. Then the wind dropped off to nothing so on went the engine but I furled the genoa. I maintained my distance from the Oyster and the French yacht fell way behind even though they were also motoring.
My course put me in a good wind corridor and Malua's speed went up over 7 knots. Off went the engine and the race was on again. I was going as fast as Malua could go and gained about half a mile on the Oyster but the wind angle came forward and I had to beat into 20 knots of wind. I was going well however the Oyster seemed to point higher than Malua and they were coming at me at a pace.
I did everything I could to get a few extra knots but nothing would make the boat go faster. The Oyster passed to windward with a full genoa and an fully furled in mast reefed main. Only when he was ahead did I see that his engine was on and he was motor sailing past me. That's not cricket.
I arrived at Dominica which it is said to have the highest rainfall in the Caribbean and vast tracts of unspoilt natural vegetation. Clearly it is overgrown and the street all have wide storm water cutters down the side. Chris Doyle who writes the cruising guide likes the place and writes it up as the best island in the Caribbean. He also sings the praises of the boat boys who have formed an association to regulate their behaviour. It is known as PAYS. He recommends only dealing with them. Like many island one of the boat boys was waiting for me many miles off shore asking if I needed a mooring or services. "No Thanks"
I arrived only minutes after the American flagged Oyster dropped anchor. I was about to anchor off his bow. While we were approaching the Oyster - Grace was calling a name in the cruising guide asking for assistance. When he dropped anchor there was a swarm of boat boys around his vessel. I dropped anchor and one came over and asked if i was interested in a river cruise and inland expedition. When I mentioned I was alone he lost interest immediately and left.
I pulled back on the anchor and it did not take so up it came. I did that three times in three different places. The wind was in excess of 20 knots and was swinging from side to side. I finally got the anchor to hold and was closing down the systems when lo and behold a American 50ft HR with a man and wife crew appeared in white tops blue shorts, PFD round their necks and the correctly fitted crouch strap dropped their anchor about 20 m off my bow. As they drifted astern in setting the anchor their stern was within 10 m of Malua. I said they were close but "No we will drift astern of you" "thanks pal that is not good enough in this type of wind" Now I seem to be able to get through to a French man who anchors on top of me but these Americans were something else. So I switched on the systems, started the engine and pulled up the anchor. Then the search began again for a secure holding.
After three more tries I found a spot but was not happy because If I drifted back I would swing over a mooring with a large cat on it. Any way it was time to go ashore and look around.
The Town of Portsmouth is clearly very poor. The main industry seems to be taxis and taking tourist for a ride. The shops and super markets had very very items in them except Angostura bitters - made of course in Trinidad but only $5 for a large bottle - now that is value.
I walked through the town and out into the country then returned to the beach which had only two very run down restaurants on it. Not very welcoming. I felt that Doyle had made a big show of a very run down average place. Not worth more than a few hours stay which was to be the case for Malua.
I cooked dinner and turned in as the wind settled and the rain came down. At about 4:50 in the morning a squall came through and Malua swung on her anchor. I got up and found we had dragged and i was now quite close to the moored catamaran.
It was time to move on. Dawn was only one hour or so away so I plotted a course for the Saints islands only 20 miles away, hoisted the main and set a course for the entrance between the islands Terre d'en Bas and Les Augustines knowing I would arrive well after it was light.
It was a great sail. The moon was still up and the wind had not come up.
At 0800 just when I had to do the MOzzie net I entered the passage and calmer waters. I had arrived.
A magical moment on Malua

Malua is at 15:52.25N 61:35.16W in the Saints on 2/02/2013

The Saints according to the cruising guide is an irresistible group of islands with idyllic Gallic charm. I would add with no where to anchor except on top of a mooring buoy. The wind was howling through the bay as I entered. Fortunately Katharine and Peter on The Southern Cross were in the bay secured to a mooring. Now that is a change!
They recommended I pick up a mooring buoy if one is free. At which time one came free next to them so they kindly put their dinghy in the water and helped me get a line through the ring in the mooring buoy. It was not easy but after two attempts we secured Malua. I went below and made myself breakfast of bacon and fried eggs with tomatoes and orange marmalade. It was actually Sunday but good enough.
After checking in using the computer system in some internet cafe I went to The Southern Cross to thanks them. They had planned another great walk and a snorkel in a bay on the windward side of the island. I was and entrant.
We set off with our gear for the Baie de Pompierre. It was an easy walk over the ridge of the island and down into this sheltered bay. It has a narrow entrance, not suitable foe yachts but ideal for swimming we we did for most of the afternoon. We timed our return to be after the official had left for the evening collecting mooring fees from the visiting yachts. Malua and TSC did a French runner the following morning.
A magical moment on Malua