2014 Change of Plan
Malua
set off from Norfolk with the plan to get as fast as possible south to
the warm climate of the Caribbean and the Bahamas but not spend too
long there to miss a schedule created by my fellow cruisers as they
passed through the Panama canal
prior to crossing the Pacific. After the storm and the days of
flat calm it became
increasing obvious that I would have to change my schedule. We
where east of the direct line to the Great Exuma Island and had to
start to move more westwards. The slight wind that was blowing
was coming from the SW, directly on the nose. We where close
hauled just to make any direction south. The point came that the
forecast over the next four days indicated that the wind would shift to
the west and increase making it difficult for us to make George Town in
Exuma in time for the annual regatta and the chances of getting a good
run difficult.
The calculation was 340 nm to George Town and 520 to Santiago de
Cuba. The decision was simple, turn the boat more south and head
for the Turks and Caicos Island for a short break and a refuelling
stop. Balvenie was in the area and could give me some local
knowledge
on the fees and charges levied, the cost of diesel and the ease of
entering. They and others did not have a great experience and
fuel was not that easy to get and was sold at quite an inflated price.
As we neared the major northern island of Providenciales it became
quite clear that a stop with the uncertainty of not getting fuel was a
bad idea and the current flat calm was assisting us cover the miles to
Cuba so we motored down the western side of the Turks and Caicos and to
the east of the Great Inagua Island into the infamous sea between Cuba
and Haiti known as the windward passage.
Short of Fuel
These straits are famous for fast flowing currents and strong wind
either from the west as they pass over the Cuban island or for the
weather systems that sweep north through these areas. These were
not the challenges that I was faceing. There was no wind and I
mean
no wind, not a breath. Malua was motoring along at a good speed
but with every hour another two litres of diesel left the tank. I
have two tanks which hold 400 litres but you don't actually
know at what rate the fuel has been used during your journey. The
fuel gauge is not that accurate and one does not want to run out of
fuel and have to bleed the system or more importantly suck the
sludge and dirt into the motor that accumulates in the bottom of all
vessels
tanks. I calculated and recalculated the remaining fuel, the
distance, speed and consumption. The final analysis was that if
we had to motor all the way to Santiago we would have 10 litres of fuel
in the aft tank - a slim margin especially as the entrance to the
harbour is through a dangerous river mouth between high cliffs with an
off-shore wind. I just had to hope for more wind.
The new crew decided to stand watch on this leg from 9:00pm to 2:00 am
and
seeing that there was no sailing to be done and the autopilot was doing
all the steering and the AIS was doing the watch keeping I felt safe to
sleep in my quarter bunk. When the AIS alarm went off I would get
up, make the decision on what to do and then go back to sleep. I
can sleep in these circumstance as my head hits the pillow. We had
crossed the Tropic of Cancer a few days ago and were now in the 19 to
20 degrees north and heading towards the southern hemisphere.
When my watch came around I came up on deck and as my eyes adjusted to
the darkness I saw low on the horizon the Southern Cross, yes our
Southern Cross… we are on the way home and this would be our guiding
star. There was only a few miles and a thin bit of land, the
isthmus of Panama between
us and the Pacific and home. I began to reflect on why I like
cruising and came to the conclusion that it is a major physical and
intellectual challenge not only to keep the boat going but the
preparation and the ongoing decisions one must make to keep the boat
sailing. I also like the discipline of attempting to undertake
every action and move effectively, safely and correctly. To optimise
ones actions
and reactions so you don't have to think of what you are doing. I
suppose the army calls that training and reaction. I also like the
company of fellow cruisers, not only those who one meets face to face
but those you talk to on the radio. We seem to have many common
values and goals. I do miss the news and my family but am
quite content to do my own thing and to happily sit and contemplate the
world around me even though it is only the sea as far as the eye can
see.
Land ho
On the morning of our eleventh day out from Portsmouth I saw land in
the distance as the sun rose over the sea. The Punta del Maisi Cuba was
just a low dark smug on the horizon but it was land and our
destination. The question now was would the wind come up
with the sun? Yes, it did and we where able to unfurl the sails
and
get a helping hand in taking us to our destination. Unfortunately
it soon dropped away and the motor was switched on again and we motored
parallel to the coast towards Santiago.
Guantanamo
At about noon that day we were about three to five miles off the coast
when the radio came to life with an American voice asking us to
identify our vessel and who was on board. I did and looked at the
charts
to see our exact location. Off Guantanamo Bay Naval Base but a
fare way out to sea but right on the boarder of the no sail zone on the
charts. The fellow asked me if I would turn 40 degrees to port
and stand off
the land a few more miles. Yes I would but not by the
amount he wanted me to turn as I was close hauled and outside their
exclusion zone. I had hardly put the microphone down when a
powerful engine noise filled the cabin. I looked over the stern
and there was a semi-ridged inflatable with a large machine gun
pointing at us so I moved further out to sea. We kept the
cameras well hidden but watched the activity on the shore unable to see
any orange overalls! As we left the exclusion zone I called up
the fellow on the radio and thanked him for the escort but I felt safe
in these waters being an Australian vessel.
We were now only 40 nm from our destination and we got the first taste
of any significant wind. We turned off the engine knowing that
there was little fuel in the tanks and I would need it as we entered
the
harbour. We were now hard on the wind and the strong wind came up
very
suddenly. I put a big furl in the genoa and two reefs in the
main. Malua was romping along at more than eight knots in the
flat sea. The light was fading and I had difficulty making out
the land and the few fishing boats that were in the area. The airport
was a clear as day and I could follow the aircrafts approach over the
end of the runway near the entrance to the Santiago Bay.
Arrival Cuba
Finally I saw the light house on San Pedro de La Roca in the famous
Castle. Now all we had to do was find the port and starboard
channel marks and we would follow the channel into the marina if we had
sufficient fuel. I delayed starting the motor until the last
minute but kept the two reefed main up just in case I had to sail not
that would have been easy as the wind, although dropping, was right on
the nose.
It always helps to have local knowledge and having entered this harbour
less than 12 months ago I knew my way in and right up to the
Marina. I called them on VHF channel 16 and in perfect English
the
marina manager welcomed me in and requested that I drop anchor off
their quay and wait for the officials to arrive in the morning. I
knew that the location was good holding so I dropped the pick, put the
sails away and poured two good rums to celebrate a long – 12 day trip
but successful passage. Now for a good sleep. Follow us
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