2014 Change of Plan


Malua set off from Norfolk with the plan to get as fast as possible south to the warm climate of the Caribbean and the Bahamas but not spend too long there to miss a schedule created by my fellow cruisers as they passed through the Panama canal prior to crossing the Pacific.  After the storm and the days of flat calm it became increasing obvious that I would have to change my schedule.  We where east of the direct line to the Great Exuma Island and had to start to move more westwards.  The slight wind that was blowing was coming from the SW, directly on the nose.  We where close hauled just to make any direction south. The point came that the forecast over the next four days indicated that the wind would shift to the west and increase making it difficult for us to make George Town in Exuma in time for the annual regatta and the chances of getting a good run difficult.
The calculation was 340 nm to George Town and 520 to Santiago de Cuba.  The decision was simple, turn the boat more south and head for the Turks and Caicos Island for a short break and a refuelling stop.  Balvenie was in the area and could give me some local knowledge on the fees and charges levied, the cost of diesel and the ease of entering.  They and others did not have a great experience and fuel was not that easy to get and was sold at quite an inflated price.
As we neared the major northern island of Providenciales it became quite clear that a stop with the uncertainty of not getting fuel was a bad idea and the current flat calm was assisting us cover the miles to Cuba so we motored down the western side of the Turks and Caicos and to the east of the Great Inagua Island into the infamous sea between Cuba and Haiti known as the windward passage.

Short of Fuel

These straits are famous for fast flowing currents and strong wind either from the west as they pass over the Cuban island or for the weather systems that sweep north through these areas.  These were not the challenges that I was faceing.  There was no wind and I mean no wind, not a breath.  Malua was motoring along at a good speed but with every hour another two litres of diesel left the tank.  I have two tanks which hold 400 litres but you don't actually know at what rate the fuel has been used during your journey.  The fuel gauge is not that accurate and one does not want to run out of fuel and have to bleed the system or more importantly suck the sludge and dirt into the motor that accumulates in the bottom of all vessels tanks.  I calculated and recalculated the remaining fuel, the distance, speed and consumption.  The final analysis was that if we had to motor all the way to Santiago we would have 10 litres of fuel in the aft tank - a slim margin especially as the entrance to the harbour is through a dangerous river mouth between high cliffs with an off-shore wind.  I just had to hope for more wind.

The new crew decided to stand watch on this leg from 9:00pm to 2:00 am and seeing that there was no sailing to be done and the autopilot was doing all the steering and the AIS was doing the watch keeping I felt safe to sleep in my quarter bunk.  When the AIS alarm went off I would get up, make the decision on what to do and then go back to sleep.  I can sleep in these circumstance as my head hits the pillow. We had crossed the Tropic of Cancer a few days ago and were now in the 19 to 20 degrees north and heading towards the southern hemisphere.  When my watch came around I came up on deck and as my eyes adjusted to the darkness I saw low on the horizon the Southern Cross, yes our Southern Cross… we are on the way home and this would be our guiding star.  There was only a few miles and a thin bit of land, the isthmus of Panama between us and the Pacific and home.  I began to reflect on why I like cruising and came to the conclusion that it is a major physical and intellectual challenge not only to keep the boat going but the preparation and the ongoing decisions one must make to keep the boat sailing.  I also like the discipline of attempting to undertake every action and move effectively, safely and correctly. To optimise ones actions and reactions so you don't have to think of what you are doing.  I suppose the army calls that training and reaction. I also like the company of fellow cruisers, not only those who one meets face to face but those you talk to on the radio.  We seem to have many common values and goals.  I do miss the news and my family but am quite content to do my own thing and to happily sit and contemplate the world around me even though it is only the sea as far as the eye can see.

Land ho

On the morning of our eleventh day out from Portsmouth I saw land in the distance as the sun rose over the sea. The Punta del Maisi Cuba was just a low dark smug on the horizon but it was land and our destination.   The question now was would the wind come up with the sun?  Yes, it did and we where able to unfurl the sails and get a helping hand in taking us to our destination.  Unfortunately it soon dropped away and the motor was switched on again and we motored parallel to the coast towards Santiago.

Guantanamo

At about noon that day we were about three to five miles off the coast when the radio came to life with an American voice asking us to identify our vessel and who was on board.  I did and looked at the charts to see our exact location.  Off Guantanamo Bay Naval Base but a fare way out to sea but right on the boarder of the no sail zone on the charts.  The fellow asked me if I would turn 40 degrees to port and stand off the land a few more miles.  Yes I would but not by the amount he wanted me to turn as I was close hauled and outside their exclusion zone.  I had hardly put the microphone down when a powerful engine noise filled the cabin.  I looked over the stern and there was a semi-ridged inflatable with a large machine gun pointing at us so I moved further out to sea.  We kept the cameras well hidden but watched the activity on the shore unable to see any orange overalls!  As we left the exclusion zone I called up the fellow on the radio and thanked him for the escort but I felt safe in these waters being an Australian vessel.
We were now only 40 nm from our destination and we got the first taste of any significant wind.  We turned off the engine knowing that there was little fuel in the tanks and I would need it as we entered the harbour.  We were now hard on the wind and the strong wind came up very suddenly.  I put a big furl in the genoa and two reefs in the main.  Malua was romping along at more than eight knots in the flat sea.  The light was fading and I had difficulty making out the land and the few fishing boats that were in the area. The airport was a clear as day and I could follow the aircrafts approach over the end of the runway near the entrance to the Santiago Bay.

Arrival Cuba

Finally I saw the light house on San Pedro de La Roca in the famous Castle.  Now all we had to do was find the port and starboard channel marks and we would follow the channel into the marina if we had sufficient fuel.  I delayed starting the motor until the last minute but kept the two reefed main up just in case I had to sail not that would have been easy as the wind, although dropping, was right on the nose.
It always helps to have local knowledge and having entered this harbour less than 12 months ago I knew my way in and right up to the Marina.  I called them on VHF channel 16 and in perfect English the marina manager welcomed me in and requested that I drop anchor off their quay and wait for the officials to arrive in the morning.  I knew that the location was good holding so I dropped the pick, put the sails away and poured two good rums to celebrate a long – 12 day trip but successful passage. Now for a good sleep.  Follow us here...

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