I arrived in Kos in the old harbour under the castle walls. The summer season has not started because there were only a few other yachts and a large German gullet. The fellow had purchased it on the Internet for 15000 euro and then spent 20,000 fixing it up. What a great buy.
Richard and Marita arrived a dawn the following day after a very
pleasant ferry ride from Athens. A double cabin, shower and dinner in
the restaurant - the order of the day. It was great because they were
not tired after their flight from Gatwick which as usual meant that
they had to leave home at 4:00 am to get the cheap fares. We went to
the local supermarket and stocked up with the essentials they needed
and set sail for Kalymnos. We had an easy
sail with Marita at the helm. Qualified competent crew in charge. I
made a poor attempt to go stern too to the dock because half way in I
changed hands on the anchor switch and started to pull it up rather
than down. Well the second attempt we came in rather well and secured
the lines in the usual spot. Off to the Australian butcher. Well I
should say Greek but his father registered him as an Oz when he worked
in Darwin so he had to show me his new Oz passport. Very proud to be an
Australian. Just like the owner of the local hardware shop. He opened
his wife's bag and out came his passport, drivers licence and other
papers just to prove to me that he is a proud Australian. If the
government ever forced its citizens to pass a English speaking test
they would loose half of the population. The half that really want to
be Australians.
The next day the the wind was from the south so we set sail north to
Lakki on the island of Leros with its Italian art deco buildings. We
chose to anchor out and threw out at least 40 m of chain which dug in
rather well. The cat next to us dragged their anchor just as the sun
set and almost landed up on the rocks. The wind continued
to blow all night but the fetch was short so we had a good nights
sleep. That evening we visited the local wood fired pizza place and had
two great Italian pizzas in the right setting except it was Greece.
The wind was again in the right direction, over the stern but very
light indeed so we motor sailed to Patmos the home of the Saracen
pirates.
St Christadoulos got permission in 1088 to build a monastery
to St John the Divine who was banished here in the early BC era and
wrote the book of Revelations in a cave just down the hill from the
monastery. The rock in the cave is split into three being the holy
trinity. It is a great story, the book exists but did he write it here,
well we will never know but the tourists and believers come from far
and wide. This cruiser has been to the monastery and cave twice.
Richard and Marita enjoyed the site and the walk down to the harbour
where we spent a few hours sitting on the waterfront with a Mythos in
hand. What a way to spent and afternoon. We took a taxi back to the bay
in the south of the island and enjoyed the local pork in orange sauce
for the evenings meal.
Marita wanted to get some night sailing experience in while in the
Med so at sun down the following day we set sail for Naxos in the
Cyclades. The
trip would take the whole night and we would arrive just
as the sun was rising. The wind gods were kind to us with the wind from
the north just on the bean at 15 knots. It was a great nights sail with
two light houses as our waypoints along the routes. After turning at
the northern light of Naxos we sailed south along the coast as the wind
increased to over 25 knots and the sea rose to a good Med chop. We had
to put a reef in the main an furl the genoa as we approached the red
light of the harbour wall of Naxos town. The dawn was just arriving so
we entered in the light just as planned. A great sail with only a small
incident on route.
We dropped the anchor and let out 40 metres of chain then retired
to sleep for a few hours. Unfortunately the chain was over a rock so as
the boat moved in the now rising wind there was the ghastly sound of
metal on rock. I
could not pull in some scope or let it out but after a
few hours the wind direction changed and the noise went away. That
night the storm that had been brewing all day arrived with very heavy
rain and increasing wind. While Malua was inside the harbour wall the
quay was only 40 meters away so at about 3:00 am I decided that one
anchor was just not enough. If the anchor dragged I would not be
able to start the engine
before we hit the rocks. As a precaution I started the engine and
stood anchor watch until dawn when Richard helped me deploy a second
anchor. We both returned to bed to catch up on a few hour sleep. That
day was also spent down below although Richard and Marita took a walk
around the town. The next day dawned fine and we set up anchors after a
bit of back and forth with the second anchor, it would not have moved
during the high winds.
Sailed most of the way to Anti Paros and the wide bay in the south
that Malua had previously visited. Two other yachts
and the restaurant not yet open for the season. The on to Vathi on Sifnos the location of
a great meal with Richard and Charlie after their "rescue" . I just had
to phone them to find out their location which was in the Ionian. Great
to hear they are still well and enjoying the sailing but from the web
it sound as if the ex charter yacht is needing some maintenance. We
walked all round the bay and high up into the mountains above the few
houses, returning just in time for a great meal in the local tavern. A
visit to the kitchen to choose what we should eat.
On to Serifos to meet the ferry to Piraeus. We
arrived and took the local bus to the top of the town and then a leisurely walk back to the
boat just in time to watch a flotilla of British yachts arrive full of
excited poms after a good days racing to the next island. An annual
event which had some traditions of a good time had by all. Richard and
Marita caught the evening ferry to Athens and a day on the Acropolis
before flying back to the UK. I was alone again. I had greeted a rather
smart and fast looking sopped boat that had come along side the
previous evening. A couple who had taken an hour to travel the 65 NM
from Athens to Serifos. Now that is fast travel. The following evening
the came back to the dock but not with the same speed or style.
One
of the blades from the second propeller had broken off and cut a hole
right through the swim platform. It was unbalanced so the skipper could
only use one engine. 5 knots not 50. He had arranged to have a new
propeller shipped on the next ferry fro Athens and was going to change
it in the water along side the dock. not a good idea and not an easy
job. We collected the propeller from the ferry and moved his boat to
the beach where we tied it to the lamp post and one of the local
mooring buoys. Here we were able to stand on the sand and get some
leverage to undo the large bolts that held the propeller to the shaft.
They came off easily but pulling the prop off the shaft was another
task. just as we were about to use the hammer we both grasped the prop,
placed our feet against the stern, took a deep breath and pulled for
all we where worth. It came off. Great.
The new prop
fitted with only
just a few mm of clearance when we had done up the two nuts and placed
the split pin back in a new hole. What I would expect for such a
prestigious vessel. The props cost 15,000 euro each just in case you
think this was some piece of bronze. They are balanced and each have
about eight blades. thankfully the boat is still under warranty so the
manufacturer will be picking up the cost. We retired to the waterside
restaurant to celebrate the success because they sped off to Athens and
work. great couple and an interesting day. I have an invitation to
speed across the water at more than 60 knots when I am next in their
area. I cant wait.