Malua - an Adams cruising yacht
Malua - an Adams cruising yacht
We left Candarli with it's well restored Genoese Castle and safe
anchorage and sailed north into a northerly wind. By early morning it
had got up to more than 20 knots with a short chop but the sailing was
good. We tacked back and forth for most of the morning.
On the port beam was Lesvos while on the starboard was Turkey.
As with
a number of these large bays the wind can change direction and you can
get a good lift but on the other hand in the corner of the bay the wind
drops away altogether
and you are left with no wind with white horses not two chains away. In
the end we switched on the engine and motored the last few miles
through the islands and into the channel which is clearly marked with
two south cardinals and three sets of channel marks.
It is reassuring
when my waypoints which I set between the channel marks arrive on time
and in the right place. When in Ayvalik Limani known as "The lake" we
turned south past the Marina towards Carnlik Koyu for a safe anchorage
in a bay much larger than it appears in the pilot.
The Carnlik Koyu bay is close by a major road which get quite busy
in the early evening as the workers go home but the head of the bay is
next to the southern suburb of the town and is served by a municipal
bus which turn off the main road into the back streets and return to
the centre of the town. It is one YTL, pay as you enter into a large
steel box which took two strong men to off load when we stopped en
route to Ayvalik. In other parts of the world there would have been a
highjacking but not in Turkey.
The town has some old greek style
buildings and a distinct Greek feel because that community only left in
1923 when they were exchanged with the Turks on Lesvos.
The Thursday
market is the high point of the week when the out of towners come to
set up stalls and purchase the goods from the stalls on either side of
the narrow back streets. It amazes me that people can buy all the goods
- generally cheap and nasty. The tomatoes ranged in price from 1 YTL to
12.50 YTL a kg. What the difference is we could not establish. I
purchased a range of tasty black olives which are quite unlike the
greek Calamata olives having been processed in salt rather than brine.
While at anchor a Swiss vessel Octopus 1 anchored in the same bay so on
returning from the market we stopped by to say Hello to Gerry &
Brigitte. A delightful couple who accompanied us on Sunday up the
adjacent hill Kucuk Koy to take in the view. We could see the full
extent of the archipelago and the many anchorages.
On the Monday we
motored into the Setur Ayvalik Marina along side Bonito - Sandra &
Merv. That evening we boarded the ferry for Lesvos on a visa run to
update our 90 day Turkish visa. 100YTL per person return plus the E15
for the turkish visa - well it had to be done and this was the easiest
route.
The ferry left at 1800 in the evening and passed out through the
channel across the wide bay we had struggled up and into the Greek town
of Mitilini. We arrived just after 2000 and raced to the the nearest
supermarket to buy up big on wine and breakfast cereal. The wine is
always a hit and miss affair because you cant taste it and have to go
on the Greek description on the label. We were able to fit 12 one and a
half litre bottles in my bag with wheels which I could only drag but
not lift. What is the legal Turkish limit on the duty free?
Immediatly we arrived at Mitilini we realised we were not in a Muslim
country. The street were alive at 10 in the evening with families and
people eating and drinking in the sidewalk cafe and restaurants. We
stopped in at a little place to have some stewed beef and lamb with a
half litre of red. Great meal.
Gerry and Brigitte had offered us their quater berth for the night
having cleared out of Turkey on their way to the Greek Islands. They
were tied up along side of the town wharf. It was great to rest our
heads in a bunk rather than a park bench which was our other option.
At
six the following morning we slipped out and walked to the ferry dock
to
board the 8:30 ferry back to Ayvalik Turkey. Well who said a Greek
ferry left on time if there was a large tour group to join you and they
had not yet arrived. At about 10:30 after a good shoving scrum we
passed through the immigration and was on the ferry to Turkey. On
arrival the locals walk through the greek day trippers entrance and put
their ID cards in a box and receive a ticket while the others have to
wait for the visa offical to be summonsed.
After the usual boarder
delay we paid our money, reeceived our visa stamp and now we have
another 90 days in Turkey - great.
I finish reinstalling Linux on my eeePC with a new distro having again
lost the content by fiddeling without adequate knowledge. Hopefully
this will be more stable and I learnt a lesson. Thank goodness for the
backup.
We fill the tanks with water and headed out to anchor opposite
the old town of Alibey. Late in the afternoon I saw in the distance a
Halberg Rassie and a stars and stripes ensign. Could it be Meg my
neighbours from Marmaris. With no answer on the VHF I jumped into the
RIB and race after the dissapearing vessel. A supprised Susan greeted
me from Meg
Susan and Bob had sailed more than 40 miles that day on their way
north before entering Greece to sail west to the Greek Islands. We
agreed to anchor in a nearby bay Kumru Koyu to catch up on the news.
They arrived first and I came up along side and dropped the anchor they
had given me. It took first time with a perfect set. We had them over
for a roast chicken and potatoe dinner. A great evening. I hope we
cross wakes again soon.
The following morning we set off north to
Sivrice for an overnight stop on out way north. Look out for the reef
off the beach - it comes up very quickly. Holding is good in the area
but a very narrow area shallow enough to drop the anchor.
The following day we were off at dawn to round Baba Burnu where the
wind rose to more than 25 knots all on the nose. A nasty chop so we set
the furled genoa and tacked towards the Isalnd of Bozcaaada. We saw 14
ships in our vicinity all converging on the Dardanelles.
It is a nice harbour with helpfull people but not worth the 40YTL. The
restored castle is worth a visit as is the local winery where you can
purchase some over-priced wine which we did.
We left at dawn for the long slog up the Dardanelles.
Images of Ayvalik and Lesvos are at Ayvalik
The next pages documents our trip in Turkey. We then set sail for the Dardanelles.